Baku the seven year old Nigerian restaurant in the Fort Green area of Brooklyn will give you a good introduction to Nigerian cuisine, as well the music sounds of the country, as the place has a terrific sound system. The owner, a tall handsome man named Lokman (pronounced Lookman) told me that Baku means "a small roadside restaurant that is much loved." Baku is not small, but seems to have that special vibe which makes it much endeared.

There were a couple appetizers that caught my attention at Baku, including; "Igbin" (Large West African land snails) and "Moi Moi," (Ground steamed honey bean cake with hard boiled egg and flaked fish), however, Lokman strongly suggested I get the "Suya", which he  expressed is the most popular "street food item" sold in Nigeria. Suya (photo) is thinly sliced grilled lamb in Nigerian spices on a stick. I found it tasty and could understand why it was so popular. For my entree I went with the "Fish Pepper Sauce," which was a whole tilapia in a spicy peppered fish broth. On the first couple bites I found it crazy hot, almost too much to take. However, then I seemed to find my comfort level with it and end up enjoying it.

Yes, that is a VW bus parked in the restaurant. The masses traveling the roads of Nigeria pile into such a vehicle - as it says on the side of the door "Enter with your change." Unlike its name, Baku is quite spacious with the front room sporting a bar and tables along the side, and themain back room which seats about fifty with high ceiling giving it a sense of roominess. Baku serves the leading Nigerian beers Star and Gulder, and pours three South African wines.

Address - 946 Fulton Street (Brooklyn)               (347) 763-0619   

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